Franko's Guide Map of Palau
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Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau – Guide to the Undisputed Best Diving in the World
Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau is just loaded with information for everything there is to see and do in Palau. Side One of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau focuses on scuba diving and snorkeling locations, and has a lot of information about Palau’s states, and more. Side Two of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau describes many of the resorts, tourist sites, and has close-ups of Koror, Babeldaob, Peleliu, and Angaur and lots more information about the Republic of Palau.
Side One of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic Palau has the following descriptions of things to see and do in Palau, Palau’s states, and Palau’s scuba diving and snorkeling sites:
Scuba Diving In Palau: Palau's main tourist attraction is scuba diving on its barrier reefs, drop-offs, reef passages, the central lagoon, coves, caves, and World War II Japanese ship and aircraft wrecks. The well-deserved reputation upon which Palau thrives is that it is beyond a mere world-class diving destination. It is in fact THE UNDISPUTED BEST DIVING IN THE WORLD! This Franko Map shows the beauty, history, and diversity of things to see and do in Palau, but most importantly, it shows the overwhelming abundance of dive sites in and around Palau's islands and islets. When visiting and diving in Palau, you will forever remember what an amazing place this is. Palau and her waters are one of the world's most precious environments. For your great scuba diving adventure contact either
of Palau's "big three" dive companies, which includes: NECO Marine (www.necomarine.com), Fish 'N Fins (www.fishnfins.com), or Sam's Tours (www.samstours.
com). Other reputable dive companies include Maml Divers and Day Dream, with shops in Koror and Peleliu, or Blue Marlin, plus many smaller dive companies. For luxurious liveaboard adventures on a superb dive yacht visit www.oceanhunter.com, www.aggressor.com, or islandcruiseadventure.com/palau/.
Snorkeling In Palau: Palau has been nicknamed "The Underwater Serengeti of Planet Earth," by biologist Ron Leidich. With 700 species of coral and 1500 species of fish, the diversity of marine life in Palau is simply unrivaled. No where else on earth are so many species of fish packed into such a small geographic area. And best of all, most of this marine life is confined to the upper 15 feet of water, which is perfect for snorkelers. You'll find a most astonishing diversity of habitats, with over 300 rock islands, 72 marine lakes, and vertical walls that descend from a few feet deep to a 3000 foot abyss. Eachsnorkeling site is a unique creation. Protected from wind and waves, Palau's inner lagoon coral gardens are a delicate wonderland, which also is a fish nursery. Outer reefs team with planktonvorous fishes, which are stalked by predators including trevalley and barracuda. All of this drama plays itself out before your eyes in crystal waters amongst turtles, sharks, rays, dolphins and dugong. NECO Marine, Fish 'N Fins, Sam's Tours and other dive shop operators will give you a snorkeling adventure that you will forever remember.
Kayaking Palau: Palau's rock islands hide marine caves, natural arches, siphon tunnels, bays, and coconut tree beaches, all of which provide a natural paddlers paradise. Landlocked salt water lakes with subterranean ocean water connections provide isolated ecological wonders found nowhere else on earth.Novice and expert level kayakers have been attracted to Palau's stunning physical beauty and its diversity of paddling playgrounds. Effortless paddling conditions have opened a world of tranquil beauty filled with soaring tropic birds, endemic orchids, mangrove forests, and close encounters with normally shy creatures like turtles and dugongs. The turquoise waters of hidden bays are also nurseries for baby sharks and stingrays. In only a few feet of water kayakers can enjoy the sight of baby blacktip sharks swimming amongst corals and fishes. Kayak camping on the tropical beaches is the ultimate way to enjoy the intimacy of Palau's natural paradise. Starry nights and ocean breezes create a peaceful rest in the tranquil rock islands. Mobile luxury campgrounds have added comfort and amenities to your already unforgettable experience. Each of Palau's big dive companies and liveaboards can give you the kayak adventure of a lifetime. Ron Leidich, pictured at left, has provided this kayaking information. Shown leading a kayak adventure for Sam's Tours, Ron is a Palau legend for his in-depth knowledge of local biology.
World War II Ship And Airplane Wrecks - In September of 1944, prior to the landings by American Forces on Peleliu, Anguar, Kongauru and Ngesebus Islands, most of Palau's shipwrecks were already lying on the ocean bottom. However, more than half were sunk by U.S. forces during the U.S. Operation DESECRATE ONE. This is when Task Force 58 Carrier sorties on 30-31 March, 1944 bombed Japanese targets, including ships, aircraft, aircraft installations and docks. Four months later Operation SNAPSHOT carrier strikes on 25-27 July, 1944 furthered the damage and softened the enemy, sinking more ships and eliminating more aircraft. Then, just before U.S. Forces landed in September, 1944, air assaults of the Operation STALEMATE II added even more damage. With the loss of 12,000 Japanese and American men, the Islands of Palau were taken over by U.S. Forces.
Bai -This traditional meetinghouse used to be common in Palau, with several in every village. The Bai was built upon a stone platform and was made completely of wood, with no nails. The main tool used in Bai construction was a shell adze. Decorations on the front, back and interior are stories, which are the only form of written history in Palau. There were two types of Bai, the Bai ra Cheldebechel, a clubhouse Bai, and Bai ra Rubak, a Bai for Chiefs. Women were not allowed within the elaborately decorated Bai ra Rubak. Bai ra Cheldebechel formed a schoolhouse where children were taught about fishing and carpentry. A young man's first sexual experience was in this Bai, with young women from other villages brought in in exchange for money beads. It was considered an honor to serve as bai women. If they became pregnant, then that child became the child of the chief and the woman and the child received support and status. A typical Bai lasted only about 50 years in Palau's tropical weather, and then had to be rebuilt. Pictured above is the Bai at the Belau National Museum, built in 1969 in the traditional method of construction.
Stone Faces - Large stone face carvings are found throughout Palau, but mostly on Babeldaob and Koror. Some may have had religious purposes, but most are unexplained. It is not known who made these monolithic faces, nor why so many of them depict scary images, with fierce features, and even fangs. Palau's weather and the growth of lichen on the stone are slowly eroding them away.
Rock Islands (Locally Called Chelbacheb) - Palau's emerald green rock island scenery will enthrall you as you travel through them by boat on your way to and from dive sites. The aerial view of the Seventy Islands group, as shown on the title block above, shows why these limestone rock islands add to the allure of Palau. Comprised of fossilized ancient corals, the tiny islets, as seen above, are undercut by wave action, giving them a mushroom shape. People from the island of Yap anciently utilized the smallest of circular islets to carve their huge money stones, the largest currency in the world. Some of the rock islands are large enough that they even have salt water lakes, with the most famous of these being Jellyfish Lake. A few islands have caves as well, and some are even full of huge fruit bats. To the south, some of the rock islands also have lovely sandy beaches and shallow reefs, which tour operators love to visit. Rock islands are reached only by boat.
Jellyfish Lake - Access to Palau's favorite snorkeling spot begins at the Macharchar Island dock, then a semi-difficult hike to a floating dock entry at the lake's edge, where snorkelers ease into the brackish warm water and swim to the middle of the lake. There you will find an unbelievable number of Golden Mastigias Jellies pulsating to be in the sunshine. At a deeper level there are Aurilia Moon Jellies, but you will not likely see them as they prefer to be deeper. Neither has a sting. In the depths of the lake, the water has poisonous hydrogen sulfide, therefore scuba is not allowed, and it is not a good idea take a deep free dive. Please do not handle or kick the fragile jellyfishes.
NGARUANGEL - This flat sandy beach island is inhabited only by nesting birds. A few hundred years ago it was actually an inhabited island, but it all but disappeared with the onslaught of a huge tsunami. Some say that when a Portuguese ship wrecked here in the 17th century, the locals used the beads on necklaces for money to make what became the first Palauan moneybeads.
KAYANGEL - A small population lives in this peaceful, out-of-the-way atoll. It was hammered by a 1990 typhoon, which almost sent everybody permanently elsewhere. The lagoon is about 30 ft. deep, and it has passage through the west side reef. Kayangel is known as Palau’s true coral reef. These waters are popular for sport fishing. The small islands are known locally for their numerous kinds of bananas.
NGARCHELONG - The end of Babeldaob Island comprises the state of Ngarchelong, an area of low vegitation and grass lands, most noted for Palau’s premier archaeological site called Badrulchau. Here there are stone face monoliths over a 5 acre area, with some dating back to 161 AD. However. the local climate is taking a toll on these stone faces and they are eroding to slowly become unrecognizable. This state is also known for delicious clam chowder, Palau’s national dish, from farmed giant clams.
NGARDMAU Thick coastal mangroves fringe the coast and the hills then rise to Palau’s highest elevation, Ngerechelushuus, and it’s greatest waterfall, Medalaiyechad. There is a life-saving spring called Ikeam el Diong, discovered by an old, childless widow in distress and thirsty because no one would help her. This spring has provided fresh water to villagers during times of drought.
NGAREMLENGUI STATE - Palau's longest river, Nermeskang, is found here. Also Ngeremduu Bay is a breeding area for marine life and a protected zone. This state is famous for their sea cucumber (cheremrum), a delicacy that Palauans enjoy eating.
NGATPANG STATE - Home to less than 200 people, this state has extensive mangroves, rivers, and waterfalls. This is a great place to hike and kayak. Ngatpang also features ancient terraced hills, stone monoliths and pathways, and two Japanese shrines. Anciently this was the pottery-making center of Palau because excellent natural clay was found here.
AIMELIIK STATE - The wettest spot in Palau. This is a jungle mountainous area with numerous waterfalls and rivers flowing through its rainforest interior. Famous prehistoric terraces can be found in the village of Ngedebech. Also famous is Malsol's Tomb in Elechui Village. The Aimeliik Bai can be found just off the main road.
NGARAARD - The interior of this state has dense forest in rolling hills, giving way to coastal mangrove on the west coast and sandy plains on the east coast. An ancient, stone-paved hiking trail connects the east and the west. The trail also passes a spring called Ngerchokl and Ngerkall Lake. Traditional villages dot the area, with old stone platforms. Ngaraard is also home to one of the finest and longest beaches in Palau.
NGIWAL - There is a Breadfruit Tree Legend, which includes a tale about a sunken village.
Right off Ngibtal Island divers indeed visit a sunken village's remains where stone platforms can still be seen under the sea. Nririnaemelas Square in town has a spectacular Bird Nest made of stones called “The Nest of the Morning Bird”, and the statue of Ngiringemelas, the mighty warrior. Legend is that the ancient people of Ngiwal were big eaters, consuming 7 meals and 9 soups per day. The phrase “7-eat-9-soup” is locally common.
MELEKEOK - This state has sandy beaches, thin fringing mangrove, swampy marshes, hills, and Palau’s largest freshwater lake, Ngardok Lake. The Ngardok Nature Reserve and lake make for good hiking and bird watching. Melekeok is the new capital of The Republic of Palau.
BABELDAOB - At 24 mi. long X 10 mi. wide, (39 km. x 16 km.) Babeldaob is Micronesia's third largest island (Guam & Pohnpei are larger). Much of Babeldaob is undeveloped, and the entire west coast is fringed with mangrove, which protects the coast, but also inhibits development. However, ancient civilization is apparent everywhere as a large part of Palau's "Big Island" is terraced for farming, plus there are many ancient stone pathways and platforms for Bais. The modern "Compact Road" circumnavigates Babeldaob. Now tourists and locals can easily drive to the new capitol at Melekeok, and to many historic and natural sites around the island. There are no gas stations. Bring water, food, and tire-changing equipment. Neco Marine and Sam's Tours offer superb one or two day tours.
NGCHESAR - Thick mangrove forest make up the coastline, along with coconut palms. The Terraces in Ngerngesang Village are examples of ancient agricultural terracing from 491 AD to 1150 AD. Open forest and trails are popular for trekking. People here have a traditional belief that the whitespotted eagle ray is to be revered as it is related to Spirits. The traditional war canoes here are decorated with eagle ray images. Hunting an eagle ray would bring bad luck on the village.
AIRAI - A suspension bridge from Koror called the “Japanese Friendship Bridge” gets you to this state, plus to Palau International Airport. The Airai Bai is the only traditional building remaining in Palau from the 1800s). Also from the 1800s there is a Yapese Stone Money Quarry. This state is ringed with mangroveforest, and is divided by the Ngerimel River. You will also want to visit Chades er a Mechorei, the traditional causeway in Airai, constructed out of stones many years ago. Airai is second only to Koror in population.
Scuba diving and snorkeling site descriptions from Side One of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau – Guide to the Undisputed Best Diving in the World:
GEORGE BUSH WRECK - 40' (12m) This unidentified 150' (45m) Japanese Armed Trawler was sunk by former U.S. President George H.W. Bush while flying a TBM (torpedo bomber) from Carrier San Jacinto on July 25th, 1944. Located on the north tip of Ngeruangel Reef, the wreck has been heavily salvaged, but there are scattered remains.
SAMIDARE - 15'-30' (5m-9m) Since this Imperial Japanese Navy Destroyer has been heavily salvaged, all that remains are propulsion shafts, gears, guns, and debris. There is great visibility at this location.
DEVILFISH CITY - A great place to see Manta Rays. Groups of thirty or forty at a time often show up, soaring over several cleaning stations.
CORSAIR FIGHTER - This U.S. Navy F4U Single-Engine Fighter was ditched in the shallows by its pilot in 1944. It is missing its tail section.
DESTROYER WAKATAKE - 15'-95' (5m-29m) This Imperial Japanese Navy Destroyer was sunk upright, and is broken into two sections. The water here is sometimes murky and can have strong currents. Many fish live here.
WEST CHANNEL - This huge channel is used for shipping. Outside the mouth of the channel is a good, but rare night dive. Many invertebrates and shells can be found here, including the most famous Golden Cowrie. Since reef sharks seldom see divers they may act territorial. The channel is seldom dived, because the currents are strong.
KIBI MARU - 75'-90' (23m-27m) This 2,759-ton, 321-foot Japanese Army Cargo Ship capsized in the channel. Sometimes there are strong currents at this site.
HELMET WRECK (DEPTH CHARGE WRECK) - 40'-110' (12m-33m) This unidentified 190' (58m)-long Japanese Cargo Ship was sunk upright on a sandy slope with the bow at 50' (15m) and the stern at 100' (30m). Stacks of Japanese helmets found inside give the wreck its name, but there are also gas masks, ammunition clips and an 80 mm deck gun at the stern. This wreck was discovered in 1989, and has since been a popular dive for Palau dive operators. The deck has a coat of corals and colorful sponges, and big oysters.
CHANDELIER CAVE - A well-developed cave system, with two large underwater caverns, and several smaller caverns above water. Divers can remove their SCUBA gear and walk or crawl about. Please be respectful of the cave's fragility.
TESHIO MARU - 35'-80' (14m-24m) This 2,840-ton, 321' (98m) Japanese Army Cargo Ship rests starboard side down near West Channel marker #43. There is excellent access for exploration and the visibility here is usually good. Tame batfish on this wreck pose for photographers. Caution: Stinging hydroids like to grow on shipwrecks. Wear at least a full lycra suit and gloves. Bring a light. Penetrating this or any wreck is risky.
RAIZAN MARU - 80'-110' (24m-33m) This 2,838-ton, 321' (111m) Japanese Navy Cargo Ship has been heavily salvaged and is not very good for exploration, but she sports a wonderful array of fishes.
LST T1 - 70'-95' (21m-29m) This 1,500-ton, 292' (89m) Japanese Navy Landing Ship has been heavily damaged by bombs, and makes for an excellent and unique diving experience. This wreck is a good one for penetration and exploration.
AMATSU MARU - 75'-115' (23m-35m) This huge 10,567-ton, 502' (153m) Japanese Navy Combined Fleet Tanker is also called the “Black Coral Wreck" since it was identified by the coral trees before its real name was known. It's oil was recovered, but two Japanese salvage company workers died in the effort.
CHUYO MARU - 75'- 115' (23m-35m) This 1941-ton, 272' (83m) Japanese Army Cargo Ship was sunk upright. The coral-covered deck is at 90' (27m) depth. The stern deck gun also is encrusted with coral and marine life. Lots of fish love this home.
RYUKO MARU - 70'- 120' (21m-37m) This 2,764-ton, 321 (98m) Japanese Cargo Ship was sunk upright, and is good for penetration.
SIAES CORNER - 10'-120' (3-36m) This corner juts out into the Philippine Sea to attract sharks, barracuda and many big pelagic species. The soft coral of the walls is fabulous, as are the hard corals near the top of the wall. Often a swift and fun drift dive.
SIAES TUNNEL - 10'-120' (3-36m) This favorite site has an awesome cavern with huge entrance and a pair of wide windows to exit. Black corals and sea fans adorn the windows. White-tips sleep in the tunnel or cruise the outer wall. Light does stream into the cavern, but bring a flashlight to see the details.
URAKAMI MARU - 75'-125' (23m-38m) This 4,500-ton, 387' (118m) Japanese Torpedo Boat Tender was sunk with hard starboard list. Partially salvaged, but good to explore.
SATA - 40'-125' (16m-38m) This 14,050-ton, 470' (143m) Imperial Japanese Navy Fleet Tanker, was sunk capsized by U.S. warplanes on the same day and just a few hundred feet away from its sister ship the IRO in 1944. Since this ship structure is collapsing, she is not recommended for penetration. However, she is overgrown with a wonderful array of marine life, and hosts a ton of fish.
IRO - 70'-120' (21m-36m) This 14,050-ton, 470' (143m)-long Imperial Japanese Navy Fleet Tanker, sister ship to the SATA, was bombed, burned and sunk upright by U.S. warplanes. Its entire length can be explored, along with its big guns. The ship is still penetrable. This is one of Palau's most popular wreck dives.
NAGISAN MARU - 75'-90' (23m-27m) This 4,391-ton, 362 (110m) Japanese Navy Passenger/Cargo Ship was sunk upright. Much of the ship has collapsed, but she is excellent to explore.
KAMIKAZE MARU - 80'-115' (24m-35m) This 4,916-ton, 370 (113m) Japanese Navy Motor Torpedo Boat Tender was sunk upright, and has been partially salvaged. Torpedoes and artillery shells can still be found here. This site often has poor visibility, and is not recommended for penetration.
BICHU MARU 26'-100' (8m-30m) This 4,667-ton, 367' (112m) Japanese Army Cargo Ship sits heavily listing to port, yet has good penetration access. A tall foremast ascends to within 26' (8m) of the surface. This wreck has also been called the Hokutai Maru and the Gozan Maru, but is now confirmed to be the Bichu Maru.
SOFT CORAL ARCH - Shallow snorkeling only. Tour operators have discovered a perfect place to bring boatloads of fascinated snorkelers, who swim through an arch in which the waters are filled with colorful, delicate soft corals, lion fish, crayola shrimp and crabs, and little damselfish. Often this snorkeling adventure is done by scuba divers on the return trip to Koror after diving.
BLUE HOLES - To 80'+ (24m) Four vertical shafts right next to Blue Corner at the Ngemelis Island group are dived from knee-deep straight down to exits at 80' (24m) into a huge, sun-lit cathedral chamber, which opens out into the open ocean of the steep drop-off. In a good current you can drift along the vertical wall over to Blue Corner from here, or do the whole thing in reverse.
BLUE CORNER - To 100'+ (30m) This drift dive is an outstanding shark adventure for advanced divers. You dive here 10 times and have 10 different dive experiences. This is one of Palau's most famous and popular reef dives. Schools of grey reef sharks are often seen, as well as numberless reef fishes. Divers hang on in strong currents at specific locations to watch the big fish action, which might include tuna, marlin and Napolean (humphead) wrasse. Along the wall there are large schools of Moorish idols. In calm nooks and crannies, divers encounter sleeping turtles and white-tip reef sharks. Most dive operators target Blue Corner for their customers, because it is always great.
VIRGIN BLUE HOLE - To 100'+ (30m) This narrow hole goes straight down from shoulder deep to 102' (31m), then horizontally through a subway tunnel to the wall, where you exit and swim with the current either way, depending on the tide. The wall is simply magnificent and usually features whitetip sharks, plus lionfish in nooks and crannies.
NEW DROP-OFF 10'-100'+ (3m-30m+) As the reef curves around the corner of the island the nature of the drop-off changes as it gets full of nooks and crannies in cracks, crevices and cuts. Divers see many butterflyfish and schools of snapper, plus a few turtles and sharks. Black coral trees protrude from the wall. Caution: Tide changes and weather can make surfacing in the right place away from the reef more important, because dive boats can't maneuver too close to the reef.
BIG DROP-OFF (NGEMELIS WALL) - 5'-100'+ (1.5-30m+) Scuba divers and snorkelers both enjoy this beautiful wall because it starts near the surface, then plunges straight into the deep. The shallow reef extends all the way to the island. Ngemelis Wall is Palau's Original dive site. An old, very large golden sea fan juts straight out off the wall at 80' (24m). At the Northern end of the island where dive boats usually take an interval/lunch break there is a WWII American mooring chain and metal ball encrusted with marine life.
NGEDEBUS WALL - 40'-120' (12m-36m) Steep sloping reef is noted for one of the most amazing creatures in the whole ocean, the cuttlefish. They get to about 2' (60cm) long. Most commonly, however, divers will find an array of colorful tropical fish, including the comical clown triggerfish.
PELELIU WALL - 20'-100'+ (6m-30m+) This drop-off starts at only 20' (6m). The vertical wall is covered in colorful corals, including yellow soft corals. The wall is full of crevices making this a place to see many small fishes. However, the current here is strong, even for expert drift divers.
PELELIU CORNER - 40'-100'+ (12m-30m+) This drift dive can be every bit as good and varied as the more famous and popular Blue Corner. Divers might encounter any number and any type of pelagic species, as well as many kinds of shark, including tigers and oceanic white-tips. Occasionally a dive group's day is made by a passing whale shark. Caution: Since this is a serious drift dive, always bring a safety sausage, a noisemaker, and a dive light to help the boat find you when you are gone.
SANTA MARIA CORNER - The rocky shore here features a statue of Santa Maria. The drop-off is loaded with reef creatures, including the curious looking bumphead parrotfish and lobsters. Oceanic white-tip sharks and large green sea turtles are seen here too.
TURTLE REEF - The corals form overhangs under which large green sea turtles like to rest.
AIRPORT WALL - Maybe the best visibility in Palau is found here in the Northwestern corner of Anguar Island. Large schools of tunas and jacks are seen. The walls are deeply creviced and full of invertebrates.
PELELIU EXPRESS - Advanced divers only. Currents can be severe and unpredictable. At this site, divers may encounter Blue Marlins, Sailfish, pods of whales, barracuda, turtles, giant groupers, and more. Caution: This is a challenging dive for very advanced divers only.
YELLOW WALL - Named after yellow tube corals that cover the wall. Schools of jacks, snappers, triggerfish, and yellow pyramid butterflyfish are common. Occasionally pelagic species are seen. Currents can be strong.
TURTLE COVE - 10'-50' (3m-15m) This sandy cove is a traditional hawksbill turtle nesting site, but human encroachment has all but eliminated this phenomenon. The shallow reef flat has two swim-through tunnels leading to the outer reef wall. One lets out at 25' (7.5m), and the other at 50' (15m). The wall is loaded with soft corals, sea fans, pyramid butterflyfishes, and cute squirrelfish.
MANTA RAY CLEANING STATION - 50'-60' (15m - 18m) Just outside of German Channel in the sandy slope there are numerous coral heads where little cleaner wrasse pick the parasites off of behemoth manta rays, as well as a few other customers, such as turtles. Mantas come here to mate in the winter, but sometimes do not show up during the summer. Summer brings aggressive triggerfishes, which lay their eggs at the coral heads.
GERMAN CHANNEL - To 10' (3m) This sandy-bottom channel is 10' (3m) deep and 1200' (365m) long, and it was cut through the reef by the Germans in the early 1900's. The main attraction is not the myriad of reef fishes, the interesting shells, nor the leopard sharks, rather it is the parade of manta rays that use the channel to go from the open ocean to the inner lagoon. The view is especially good as the clear inflowing tide waters run through the channel. Good night dive.
NGERCHONG NORTH CORAL GARDEN - To 40' (12m) This reef is loaded with beautiful, colorful coral formations. The sloping bottom turns into a sand channel where mantas and reef sharks are sometimes seen.
LIGNITE - This 4,338-ton, 366' (112m) U.S. Concrete Barge sits almost entirely on its port side, with her fore sections exposed above the water. She is great for exploration, and has very shallow depths.
JELLYFISH LAKE - Surface snorkeling only. Access is via a semi-difficult hike to a lovely mangrove-rooted entry off of a floating platform at the lake's edge. The attraction for snorkelers to this brackish lake are millions of gentle jellyfish, including two species, the Golden Mastigias (the one you will see for sure) and the Aurilia Moon (the one that is usually too deep to see). Their sting is so slight that you can't feel it. In the depths of the lake the water has little oxygen and much poisonous hydrogen sulfide, therefore no scuba is allowed, and don't take a deep free dive even if you can. The local crocodiles and monitor lizards tend to ignore humans. Don't handle or kick the fragile jellyfishes!
CLAM CITY 20'-30' (6m-9m) Giant clams (locally called “Otkang”) have been planted off Baules Island. Amongst the clams there are a few coral heads where the conspicuous lionfish live.
JAPANESE ZERO II This Japanese Mitsubishi A6M Navy Type 0 Fighter (Zeke) sits in just 10' (3m) of water on a shallow reef. It is a popular snorkeling spot, although the plane has long since been stripped of all removable parts.
LIGHTHOUSE CHANNEL (KESEBEKUU CHANNEL) - 10'-80' (6m-24m) This is the main channel to Koror Harbor for shipping. The lighthouse dates to WWII. Strong currents flush through this channel bringing nutrients to a myriad of tiny marine life.
SHORT DROP-OFF (NAUTILUS DIVE) 40'-100'+ (12m-30m+) Chambered nautilus live in the depths below along this wall. Since they are beyond dive limits, the ancient creatures are lured into cages with bait, and then released for divers to see. Since the nautilus like the water cold, dark and deep, they soon head home. This is a popular hangout for a large number of barracuda, plus it is frequented by pelagics, manta rays, eagle rays and juvenile grey reef sharks.
JAPANESE ZERO - This Japanese Mitsubishi A6M Navy Type 0 Fighter (Zeke) crashed upside down at 60' (18m) depth. The “Palauan Lagoon Monument” section of Palau's constitution protects this and all other WWII aircraft and shipwrecks from looters. However, this unenforcible law was ignored and this wreck, like all other accessible wrecks, has been stripped of anything that could be removed. It is still interesting, and full of fish.
BUOY NO. 6 WRECK - 65'-75' (19m-23m) This unidentified 100' (30m) Japanese fishing boat sits upright with a slight starboard list right at the edge of the shipping lane. It is encrusted with soft corals, sea fans and even black coral, and it hosts swarms of fish. Night divers like this photogenic spot.
JAKE SEAPLANES - These Japanese Aichi E13A Navy Type 0 Fighter Seaplanes less than 50' (12m) apart are sunken for snorkelers to see. One is in a natural cave, which was used to conceal seaplanes during WWII.
Side Two of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau features close-up maps of Koror, Babeldaob, Peleliu, and Angaur, and also has a map showing the locations of Sonsoral Island, Fanna Island, Pulo Anna Island, Merir Island, Tobi Island (Hatohobei State), and Helen Reef. Here are the descriptions on the map of Koror:
Koror (Locally Called Oreor) - Three islands connected by bridges and causeways make up Koror State. Nineteenth Century British influence made Koror the most developed part of Palau. The Japanese overtook Koror in 1940, making it their World War II Pacific headquarters. They paved roads and installed electricity. However, after the war, Koror struggled to rebuild as its buildings and bridges had been bombed. There was little foreign interest until the early 1970's, when scuba divers and snorkelers discovered the magnificent underwater world and incredibly scenic islets of Palau. The advent of dive tourism and help from the U.S. government helped Koror to have a better standard of living. Now tourists come mostly from Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong, the Philippines, Australia, the U.S.A., and Europe. Although the capital of Palau has been moved from Koror to Melekeok, Koror still has the majority of the population, plus it has most of Palau’s finest hotels and restaurants, an aquarium, local handicraft stores, and museums. All of Palau's major dive operators have a base in Koror. Since there are no street names on Koror, find directions by landmarks on this map.
Palau Pacific Resort - "PPR" is a luxury resort hotel in a tranquil, lush landscape on a lovely beach surrounded by crystal waters. This is a great spot for a honeymoon or for divers who want to be pampered. Snorkeling right off the hotel's beach is superb. A saltwater fish pond has 200 fish, clams, and stingrays. The hotel's Alfresco Restaurant has fine dining three meals a day, and their dinner buffet is one of Palau's best meals. The resort has a dock, kayaks, catamarans, a swimming pool, and tennis. (680) 488-2600
The Carolines Resort - Perched on a hill with the greatest sunset views in a jungle setting, this retreat also has access to PPR's superb beach and facilities. (680) 488-3754
Rose Garden Resort - Stone Pathways lead to cottages overlooking the beautiful bays of Koror and the Philippine Sea. (680) 488-7671
Cliffside Hotel - Located in pristine natural surroundings, with sunrise and moonrise views and a balcony for every room. Also features Turtle Cove Restaurant and Jungle Bar by the pool. (680) 488-4590
Grocery Shopping - For all your grocery needs stop in at WCTC or Surangel & Sons. Both are great, but Surangel & Sons caters more to the American or Westerner's tastes, and WCTC caters more to the Asian tastes. Both have shopping center locations with other fine stores.
Bandido's Mexican Cantina & Restaurant - Yes you can indeed get authentic Mexican food and margaritas in Palau. The food is great and the atmosphere is fun.
The Prison Shop - Convicts spend there prison sentence crafting artwork out of wood in the form of Palauan storyboards. This is a favorite store in Palau for gifts and genuine made-in-Palau artifacts.
The Taj Palau - You could eat at restaurants the world over trying to find food this good. Wow! It is not just the best Indian food, with incredibly delicious variety, but it is the best food period. When you are there say thanks to Robert.
Palasia Hotel - 165 room hi-rise hotel in the center of Koror has town or bay view rooms, with nice swimming pools, fitness center, restaurants and bars. Ming's Restaurant features Chinese Cuisine.
Etpison Museum - This privately owned museum is full of history and artifacts of Palau. There is an excellent gift shop for genuine Palauan souvenirs, plus the popular Reef Restaurant. This rates as one of Micronesia's finest museums.
Street Names - Visitors find that Palau no street names. The road through town is called "The Main Road". and all other streets are described for where they go, such as, "The Road to the Aquarium", or "The Road to PPR". The road around Babeldaob is simply called "The Compact Road".
Fish 'N Fins - Operating since 1972, some say this is the most complete diving and tour service in Palau. The shop includes photo services, a technical diving center, kayaking, outrigger canoes, land tours, snorkeling trips, rock island tours, and fishing trips. Fish 'N Fins can also set you up in their amazinag live-aboard dive boats, the Ocean Hunter Fleet. See www.fishnfins.com.
Neco Marine Dive Shop - "Neco" means Ngiratkel Etpison Company, founded after WWII by Ngiratkel Etpison (1925-1997), the honorable late president of Palau. Today Neco has a large air-conditioned retail space, an internet cafe, gear room, rental gear, scuba training pool, photo services, and a fleet of fast dive boats. Neco Marine also features The Drop-off Bar and Grill, certainly one of Palau's tastiest restaurants, especially the catch-of-the-day. Details at www.necomarine.com.
Sam’s Tours - This superb PADI 5-star National Geographic dive center and eco-adventure tour company operates year round, offering scuba trips, snorkel trips, rock island tours, land tours, and kayak trips. Sam's guides have intimate knowledge of Palau. For a special adventure, ask to explore one of Palau's 72 salt water lakes.
Dolphins Pacific - Palau's dolphin research facility also has a fine rock island dolphin experience for you. www.dolphinspacific.com
Palau Mariculture Development Center - Millions of clams are nurtured in the world's largest giant clams nursery,and then released into the bays. PMDC also rears hawksbill turtles for release.
West Plaza Hotels - The West Plaza Coral Reef, By the Sea, Downtown, Desekel and Malakal offer you diver-friendly comfort and affordibility on Koror and Malakal Islands. (680) 488-2133
MAML Divers - Full service dive shop that specializes in serving Asian tourists.
Blue Marlin Dive Shop Dive shop especially caters to Asian divers.
Palau Royal Resort - 5-star resort hotel has all of the amenities, including luxury rooms and a sunning beach. Conveniently located on a gorgeous bay. Hotel restaurant offers both Asian and Western Cuisine.
Ice Box Park - Nice grassy park with stairstep access to interesting snorkeling. Named for Japanese ice manufacturing that was here at one time.
Palau Aquarium - 17 habitats and 10 aquariums display the fabulous beauty, diversity, and importance of Palau's coral reef environment. For divers as well as non-divers.
Palau Plantation Resort - 15 rooms of fine hotel located in the middle of a lush primeval forest. Offers authentic Japanese and Palauan cuisine at Yoshitsume BBQ. (880) 488-3631 www.palau-resort.com
Belau National Museum - This wonderful museum displays Palau’s culture and natural history from ancient times, through the Japanese period, the trust territories period, and into modern times. Fantastic gift shop and book store.
Here are the descriptions on the map of Babeldaob, on Side Two of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau:
Tet El Bad Stone Coffin - Located in the village of Ollei, this rectangular stone coffin is platform used for the local chiefs’ meeting house. The stone coffin is an excellent example of expert carving of a sarcophagus with both the casket and the lid made of andesite rock.
Stone Faces Of Badrulchau - In a field there are rows of large basalt monoliths. In all there are 37 stones, some weighing up to 5 tons. The originsof these stones are unknown, as is the reason that many have been carved into scary faces.
NGARAARD STATE -This state has some of the best accessible beaches on Babeldaob. It also has the largest east/west stone path that goes from the Pacific Ocean to the
Philippine Sea. Follow the signs to the North Beach Cottages to find a terrific restaurant for your lunch. Phone (680) 824-4444
NGARDMAU STATE - The ruins and terraced strip mines of the 1930's Japanese bauxite mining operations can be found in Ngardmau State. Bullet holes can be seen at the processing plant ruins and at cable car locations where processed ore was brought back to a dock area to be shipped to Japan's aluminum plants.
Ngardmau Waterfalls - An hour or two from the Ngardmau Dock, depending on your trekking ability, or hike down from the Compact Road in about 20 min. You can swim in the stream below the lovely falls. The falls are locally known as Medala Iechad. Expect to pay a fee. There are also a couple of cabins at the falls that you can rent from the locals.
Lake Ngardok - The largest natural lake in Micronesia is the center of the Ngardok Nature Reserve. Its wetlands and uplands forest provide habitat for rare birds, rare native plants and orchids, and the endangered crocodile, "ius". This lake collects water from a 1000-acre watershed and drains to the sea via the Ngerdorch River. The reserve protects this habitat and guarantees water quality for nature and a pristine water supply for the people of Melekeok. Permission to enter is required from the Reserve Manager or from the State office. Call (680) 488-1755. An officer will accompany you.
Sunken City (Ngibtal) - According to Palauan legend, this city sank into the sea when it was flooded after a breadfruit tree was cut down. Water gushed out where the tree had stood.
Melekeok Bai - This traditional bai was built by the people of Melekeok, and is one of four standing bais in Palau.
Odalmelech Stone Faces - This site dates to 895 A.D. There are six stone faces, which are believed to represent Odalmelech (a Palauan god) and his five councilmen.
The Capital Of Palau - Melekeok is the new capitalof Palau, with magnificent capitol, legislature and court buildings.
Japanese Cannons - Two cannons from World War II are found along a red-colored road.
Imeong Traditional Village - A fascinating piece of ancient Palauan history where you can walk along ancient stone roadways to view stone platforms and building sites, a stone bridge, burial locations, stone monoliths, and cultural sites.
Uluang Terraces - These terraces are considered to be one of the most important archeological sites in Palau. These beautiful examples of ancient agricultural terraces were abaondoned after inter-village warfare.
NGAREMLENGUI STATE - Along the main dirt road entering the interior of Ngaremlengui State, you will see the remains of a Japanese pineapple plantation and cannery. Old ovens and loads of rusting machinery cannot be missed. A stone monument overlooks the plantation area. Look carefully for a wrecked seaplane's wings and engine on the opposite side of the road.
World War II Monument - The main bombed out Japanese Military Headquarters and a present day war memorial are along the main road through Ngatpang State near a rusting communications tower. American priests and missionaries were executed at a nearby hill during the war. The pyramid-shaped monument is dedicated to the souls of the American and Japanese soldiers and the people of Palau who were killed during World War II.
Aimeliik Bai - A traditional Bai built by the people of Ameliik, and one of four standing Bais in Palau.
Malsol's Tomb - Malsol was a great warrior who murdered the son of a woman named Dirr. Dirr enlisted the help of one of the chiefs, and they fought Malsol, captured him, and brought him back to her village. The women of the village stoned him to death. The stones make up his tomb.
Captain Henry Wilson - The first extensive contact with outsiders that Palauans had ever had was when Capt. Henry Wilson sailed from Great Britain and shipwrecked on Ulong aboard the Antelope in 1783. With the ship hopelessly wrecked, Capt. Wilson befriended the Ibedul, high chief of Koror. They exchanged goods and learned to get along for 6 months while the Palauans helped build a new boat using Ulong's great trees, salvaged wood from the Antelope, and English tools and technology. The "Oorolong" was built and sailed to Macau. Meanwhile, with the gift of guns, English goods, and Capt. Wilson's help the Ibedul conquered Melekok. At the high chief's request, Capt. Wilson took the Ibedul's son back to England to be educated in the ways of the west. Unfortunately, smallpox overcame the lad in England and he never returned. However, from that time forward the westernization of Palau has continued.
"Survivor Palau" (2004) & "Survivor Micronesia" (2007) - Dive and snorkel tours visit Ulong's stunning beach and giant jungle forest between dives and discover that the scene is familiar. That's because millions of viewers have seen this site on the reality TV show, "SURVIVOR."
Ulong Pictographs - A large collection of rock paintings is found at the end of an ancient pathway on the northwest side of Ulong. Pictographs show humans and unusual conoes. The sites are also littered with shards of pottery and human bones. The peoples that were here are of unknown origin.
Seventy Islands (Locally Called Ngerukewid) - This group of islands forms the scene that most people have come to envision as the definition of what Palau looks like. This particular set of islets is viewable only from the air, as seen above, because the area
defined in the map has been set aside permanently as a wildlife preserve. There is no visiting allowed, and so the area will remain an undisturbed replenishment zone for all plant and animal life.
Airai Bai - This oldest bai in Palau is said to be over 200 years old. Traditionally used by the village chiefs of Airai, the building is sacred. Show respect when visiting and expect to pay a small fee.
Airai Dock - A replica of an ancient war canoe sits in a canoe house at the Airai dock.
AIRAI - Down through ancient times, Palau was divided into two independent confederations. The High Chief of Koror, known as the Ibedul, controlled one clan. The high chief of Melekeok, known as the Reklai, controlled the other clan. All of Palau aligned itself with one side or the other throughout recorded history. Warfare was territorial with fishing grounds and fertile land at stake. Alliances and boundary matters were either negotiated or fought over. Airai State was the neutral meeting location where each of the warring clans had a landing place and a safe place for diplomacy.
Yapese Stone Money Quarries - The Yapese used clam shell adzes to quarry stones from which they made huge coins. The Yapese currency were large disks with holes in the middle. The trip between the quarry sites and Yap was dangerous and many men lost their lives along the journey. The value of the stone money was not based on size, but rather the number of lives lost in the journey to quarry it. So, the more treacherous the journey, the more value in the stone money. The piece of stone money with the highest value is actually so small that you could hold in the palm of your hand.
Palau Gamefish - The waters surrounding Palau are full of big game fish, including the ones show below, plus marlin, sailfish, and great barracuda. On occasion specimens of these beautiful pelagic species are seen by divers, especially on outer parts of the reefs.
Scuba Diving Palau - A divers is entertained by pyramid butterflyfish. Divers may see more species of fish in Palau than anywhere else in the world.
Here are the descriptions on the map of Peleliu, on Side Two of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau:
PELELIU - At the southernmost end of Palau's huge barrier reef is the island of Peleliu, which was the location of some of the WWII Pacific Theatre's fiercest fighting, as the Allied Forces routed the Japanese occupiers. Underground forts and caves were sealed off when the Japanese soldiers refused to surrender. Japanese and American memorials are found all over the island, plus there are old tanks, engines and other war debris rusting away. Numerous companies, including Palau's major dive shops, offer land tours of Peleliu, sometimes between or after dives. Many of the 100+ local houses look like a makeshift museum with WWII artifacts in their yards on display. Peleliu is reached via boat or via small aircraft, which lands at a WWII Japanese landing strip. This island state is known for fabulous scuba diving sites.
Here are the descriptions on the map of Sonsoral Island, Fanna Island, Pulo Anna Island, Merir Island, Tobi Island (Hatohobei State), and Helen Reef, on Side Two of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau:
SONSORAL ISLAND - Up to 500 meters wide by 1.8 km. long, this islet's inhabitants number about two dozen. The village of Dongasoro is the capital of Sonsorol State. Being about 400 miles from the rest of Palau, Sonsoral receives few visitors or provisions. A state boat comes and goes every other month. Subsistence farming and fishing sustain the tiny population.
FANNA ISLAND - This thickly wooded remote islet is unpopulated. With Sonsoral it forms the Sonsoral Islands.
PULO ANNA ISLAND - Less than a dozen residents whose ancestors originally came from the Carolines, over 600 miles away, fish and farm this 550 meter by 800 meter islet.
MERIR ISLAND - Only a handful of people live on this 600 meters wide by 2.2 km. long islet, which has a radio station at a village called Melieli. The Tobi State boat comes by every month or two.
TOBI ISLAND (HATOHOBEI STATE) is 210 mi. (338 km.) north of the equator and 400 mi. (644 km.) south southwest of Koror. Tobi is Palau's most remote coral islet. The 20-or-so locals fish the fringing reef, grow taro and bananas, plus have abundant coconuts. The occasional visitor sleeps in the chief's bai. The state boat goes to Koror for provisions every 60 days.
HELEN REEF This largely uninhabited atoll hosts 12,000,000 nesting lesser-crested terns each year.
Here are the descriptions on the map of Angaur, on Side Two of Franko’s Guide Map of the Republic of Palau:
ANGAUR - Seven miles south of Peleliu at the southern end of Palau's barrier reef lies Anguar island. The northern shoreline spouts with numerous blowholes, while much of the island has fabulous beaches. The Americans invaded Red Beach in 1944, making this another bloody battle site. WWII artifacts and a couple of aircraft wrecks are still on Anguar. Old phosphate mines at the northwest corner of the island were begun by the Germans in 1909, taken over by Japanese in 1914 until WWII, and closed by Americans in 1954. The mining site is now a brackish lake with saltwater crocodiles. Indonesian monkeys also inhabit Angaur, having been introduced to the island by Germans, who used the little fellas to test the air within the mines.
